Thursday, December 07, 2006

Jacket - Day One

Made some progress on the jacket. I spent way too long trying to figure out how to change my needle on my regular old sewing machine. Fortunately, it took me only a matter of minutes to thread four bobbins on my serger, replace two needles and test my tension for a four thread overlock stitch.

The 'pattern' I wove consisted of two pieces which would attach at the back creating the majority of the jacket. The key is to remember when weaving is that the pattern goes up for a yard, then must switch directions at the shoulder so the pattern always looks upright. I checked - all my trees are heading the right direction on the front and back so life is good. I have some extra material for pockets or cuffs on the sleeves.

This time I thought I would serge the edges and remove those raggy edges of material. The instructor who taught the class one of the sewing classes I took said you should just leave them since they would be hidden under the lining. I have found all that extra material to be a bit bulky and the jacket always seems too heavy to me. Of course, when you cut up five yards of material and weave it into 2.5 yards of woven materials...the weight of five yards of material will be there in the jacket. I was surprised at how much material I cut off! [I tried to load a picture of the edges and the pile of stuff I removed...but Blogger is not cooperating. ]

Here is how far I got today... The key decision was which side of the material would be the 'right' one and which would the 'wrong' one. I decided to go with the redder side. It has the yellow trees but no gold. I also spent much time musing over the lining. Finally, I decided to go with the tree material with the gold showing for the front and the gold silk for the back.

I sewed the back and ironed the back seam. I cut out the neck hole and the extra material for the lapel. I spent much time The lining for the main part of the jacket is cut, sewn and has been pinned with the lapel of bead leno. Pinning was quite a to get the right side to show up where you want it. This is particularly difficult since the jacket material is only subtly different on the right and wrong sides. The lining has a similar issue.

It is now ready to sew. I will wait until tomorrow just to give myself some time to consider my decisions. Once the lapel is sewn on - the dye is cast and the rest of the jacket just falls into place.
I decided to leave out the piping on the front seam. Piping always gives a jacket such a finished look. But this time, it seems too shiny and modern for the organic nature of the lapel. Perhaps its a bit too scarlet also. I've never sewn a front seam without piping...should require less thought.

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